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Iwc spitfire chronograph1/28/2024 If engaging the chronograph generates a drag the base caliber was not designed to handle, that can affect timekeeping, which means the chronograph can’t measure elapsed time accurately (though most of us would never notice the split-second error). Modular movements, also called sandwich or piggyback designs, begin with a base caliber and add a chronograph mechanism mounted on a separate plate, usually on the dial side. That can be important because a chronograph can be a “heavy” complication that requires significant power to operate. That means all components are optimized for that use. When it comes to chronograph movement design, purists prefer integrated to modular, because the integrated variety is designed to be a chronograph from the ground up. The Breitling Caliber 01 (above) and Rolex Caliber 4130 (below) both use column wheels to control the start, stop and reset functions. Their components are often stamped, not milled. The top level is COSC-certified.) On the other hand, third-party movements are produced in large quantities, so they are not exclusive. (ETA offers mechanical movements in various grades, and as you move up the quality ladder, the timekeeping improves. These movements are generally quite sturdy, and they can be excellent timekeepers. Service is relatively inexpensive and can usually be handled without sending your watch overseas. Most have been around for awhile, or they are based on tried-and-true designs, so they are extremely reliable. Third-party movements offer their own advantages. Collectors often joke about the number of frequent flier miles their timepieces have accumulated. The service is also likely to take a long time, and be performed far away. Chronographs with in-house movements tend to be rather dear, and service can be costly as well. In-house production gives brands the freedom to produce singular designs, and offers control over every step in the manufacturing process. Of course, all of that requires investment. In-house movements can offer fine functional finishing, careful adjustment, and the resulting smooth feel of quality. In-house chronographs are typically integrated, not modular, in design, and a column wheel usually occupies central command (more on these concepts below). To some, this is a virtual caste system, and place of birth and physical form confer status, or stigma, for life. Lange & Söhne’s Caliber L951.6 from the Datograph Up/Down is a finely finished in-house movement.Ĭhronograph movements come in a range of flavors: in-house, third-party and hybrid, integrated and modular, and more. Manufacturers will ditch them in a second for the sake of a design they think will induce the customer to say, “That one looks really cool,” and reach for his or her walletĪ. Today, elapsed-time indications are often sacrificed on the altar of fashion. In days gone by, manufacturers assumed that chronographs would be used and relied upon, so legible elapsed times were a given. Legibility – the easy-to-read display of elapsed times – can no longer be taken for granted. Choose carefully if these are features you desire. Some chronographs are designed to run continuously, while others are not (more on this later). For example, most chronographs can’t be operated under water, and many can’t time hours-long events. Later, when you see the odd elapsed time, it will jog your memory (assuming the idea is still in there). Other uses require that the watch have particular features. Activate your chronograph for a short time when you have an idea you want to remember. Or you can pass the time by measuring intervals spent stuck in traffic, watching TV commercials, or waiting for the doctor/dentist. Lawyers and others who sell units of time can track billable hours. When your wife says she will be ready in five minutes, press the… no, wait, that’s a bad idea. Or, try this: when they tell you your table will be ready in five minutes, press the start button. With your chronograph, you can find out how long an “instant” oil change really takes. So is determining the shortest commuting route. Tracking cooking times, parking meters, walks or runs, bike rides, exercise routines, meetings, and guaranteed pizza delivery are often cited. Salesman: “How will you use your chronograph?” Customer: “Use it? I hadn’t thought about that.” Chronographs are not just for timing races – they offer many practical uses. To guide your choice we offer 10 factors to consider when selecting a chronograph, to help make sure it suits your wants and your needs. Sometimes, the analysis of which watch to buy proceeds little further than, “Wow, that one looks cool.” Chronographs, however, are often thought of as “tool watches,” and when it comes to tools, you want the right one for the job.
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